Chas Tanner from NEW ZEALAND writes:

A great place to be but don't treat climbing on this mountain like a Sunday stroll. The Linda Glacier route presents objective danger from rock fall and large crevasses and the weather has to be watched.
Other routes like the East Ridge are magic climbs but a high standard of technical ability and fitness is needed.
This mountain has more climbing than some of the trekking peaks in the Himalayas if you start your trip from the road and don't use aircraft to get into the Grand Plateau. Navigating the horrendous moraine walls however is not the easiest.
If you are pushed for time get yourselves a guide.
Base yourselves at the New Zealand Alpine Club Unwin Lodge, telephone 006434351100 or look at the NZAC web site for more details. It is very worthwhile joining the NZAC to get discounted rates for a number of huts and lodges and definitely buy a copy of the Aoraki/Mt Cook Guide book published by the NZAC and available for purchase on their web site or at Unwin Lodge.

2014-01-04