Fang Mountain – Climbing Notes
Fang Mountain – Climbing Notes
Fang Mountain Climbing notes shared by Mountain-Forecast users
Click here to submit your own climbing note for Fang Mountain
(NOTE: Texts may be edited by our content team for the purposes of ensuring accurate and relevant information)
-
July 14, 2022
Brian Schmidt from United States
Technical rock climb for several hundred feet, snow earlier in the season can help get through steep scree (crampons needed).
There is a route to the top that gets no worse than 5.7 (mostly much easier) but route-finding is very difficult and rock is in terrible condition. I soloed it but a belayer would be in a lot of danger from rocks. Rope solo likely the only "safe" way to climb this peak. Coming from the north, go to the right side of the face but not too far right or you'll get stuck among gendarmes. Center and left didn't work for me.
I climbed it in 2004 and I know of 2 prior ascents, one was written up.
A lot of hikers get lost going back there and think they've climbed Fang when they've climbed something else. It is not a scramble, or at least not an easy and safe one.
(NOTE: Texts may be edited by our content team for the purposes of ensuring accurate and relevant information)
Brian Schmidt from United States
Technical rock climb for several hundred feet, snow earlier in the season can help get through steep scree (crampons needed).
There is a route to the top that gets no worse than 5.7 (mostly much easier) but route-finding is very difficult and rock is in terrible condition. I soloed it but a belayer would be in a lot of danger from rocks. Rope solo likely the only "safe" way to climb this peak. Coming from the north, go to the right side of the face but not too far right or you'll get stuck among gendarmes. Center and left didn't work for me.
I climbed it in 2004 and I know of 2 prior ascents, one was written up.
A lot of hikers get lost going back there and think they've climbed Fang when they've climbed something else. It is not a scramble, or at least not an easy and safe one.
Like us
Follow us
Follow us
