clmbr4lyfe from UNITED STATES writes:

Climbed first ascent in 94 via north face...the (climbers right)of the regular nf snow route/scramble route. There is a large bowl the face extends down into and to reach it you leave gunsight trail 3/4 up before the top of the pass. Head up into the bowl and look high for a diagonal snow/ice patch. It is not really a gully but it is an obvious part of the nf. It angles left...head up the permanent snow field and gain the face. This was part of the crux when I did it because it overhung a bit and committed me as soon as I made the move. The face was ice and rock when I did it but this section could easily be just rock in the right conditions.This part of the face takes you to the diagonal which was perfect water ice when I got on it. This goes for another section of the face until a chimney cuts up on the right side and heads to the ridge just to the left of the actual summit. IV 5.6 WI/AI III "All Mixed Up"

2011-02-01