The climb started in the Frances valley which followed the large ridge running half way up. Then across the icefields to the left to gain to gain another ridge to the upper section . At about 2000 meters plan for at 8 days in all .The quality of the rock is much beter than it looks. Has some 5.8 climbing in the middle section and 5.10b for the last pitch . One needs set of cams, wire nuts [set] ice screws and pegs Z shape plus knife blades. We had a lot of avalanches come pretty darn close come to us. Due to bad weather, we did not climb up to the summit headed off to our left long slog in deep snow to make our descent towards the glacier. Down a narrow gulley between the mountain massif and a rock spire