Guide Books:

There’s a little yellow guide book in Italian that’s really good. You can get it in the climbing shop in St.Martino at the entrance to Val di Mello. It covers the Val Bregaglia and di Mello, but it’s in Italian. Has every route marked in detail. There’s also a shit guide book called something Val di Mello with the worst topos I have ever seen. Impossible to find the start of the route. Don’t get them confused.

‘SchweizPlaisirSud’ is an excellent guidebook. The text is german/French/Italian, but the topos are fantastic.

‘Swiss Rock:GraniteBregaglia’ is good too, and in English. As is ‘Bernina and Bregaglia selected Climbs’ by Lindsay Griffin, Alpine club guide books.

Descent is a major issue from any route on Badile. The ridge is huge and the descent on the South side to the Gianetti hut is just as notorious. There’s an insulated metal hut just over the summit on the S side that’s been used more than once. The descent topo to Gianetti in ‘PlaisirSud’ is the best one I saw. The hike back around to SascFura is a big deal too. At SascFura the guy told us in broken German that we didn’t need ice gear to get back around, but some topos disagree. At Porcellizzo pass there is an icy couloir, or not, depending on which topo you look at. I personally was glad not to have had to face a long hike back around to the hut, and then back up to the notch to get our bags, then trying to get back to St. Martino before closing time. 

If you don't need to return to one of the Swiss huts, you  can hike out to Bagni de Masino and obtain public transportation from there. Check schedules in advance. The bus schedule has not been ideal in the past. It is apparently possible to arrange for a taxi by calling from the Gianetti Hut to take you around to Bondo.

Gear:

Double 60m ropes.

About 9 quickdraws.

Cams #0.5- #3

Nuts: I like nuts so I brought a full set.

4 double-length slings.

Side trips/where to stay:

There wasn’t much of a scene up around Albigna and Bregaglia camp sites, but the facilities are great, and the high huts are too expensive to stay in for long. 

CampingVicosoprano

Phone# +41-(0)81-822-1035 (081-822-1223)

Fax #+41-(0)81-822 10 30 (Gemeinde)

Contact person

GiannaGiovanoli (+41-81-822-1877, 079-620-7415)

Val di Mello is the place to go. It’s sometimes called the Yosemite valley of Europe. Basically, you'll find all types of climbing there: 2 meter boulder problems, bolted sport routes between 1 and 10 pitches, trad. routes, cracks, slabs, long runouts on beautiful granite. there are also 3 day bigwalls if you're more into aidclimbing. in winter you may even iceclimb there. All in a beautiful setting.

Drive north to and past the lagodicomo, then turn right in the valley that leads to the passobernina. look for valmasino and san martino. The valdimello lies just above san martino. Camping SassoRemenno in St.Martino is excellent, really close to town. 

Tel# 0342/640059

Cell#339/5225181

E-mail: campingsassoremenno(dot)com

There’s an amazing stone village way up along the pedestrian path in the Val di Mello with a charming little Rifugio called ‘Rifugio Luna Nascente’, after one of the most popular routes in the valley. 11 Euro per night for a bunk in one of the coolest most rustic settings you could imagine. And they serve beer. The proprietress speaks really good English, if your Italian is rusty. There’s a great view of Kundalini from the benches too; a recommended climb.

Tel# 0342/641053

Rif# 0338/3317507

Other recommended climbs:

-lunanascente, 7 pitches, 7- or 6/A0 = 5.10, gear.

-oceanoirrationale, about 14 pitches, 7/A0 = 5.10+ gear, the most impressive line in the valley

-anche per oggi non sivola, 11 pitches, fr.6c/A1, bolted, left of oceanoirrationale

ThevalBregaglia is about an hour and a half by car from valdi Mello. You pass through Chiavenna on the way which is a really nice little town, and worth a stop if you have time. Go to Longoni Sport in Barzano (just north of Milan)apparently the biggest, best, cheapest climbing/mountaineering/aerobics shop around!

Huts in the Bregaglia

SCIORA HUT: 
Tel. # Hut: 081 - 822 11 38

Reservations:

-directly to the hut, or

- 081 - 822 11 64, or

- 01 - 780 00 74, or

-on-line reservations 

Sleep places: 42 

Food supply: Full or half-board, Snacks and route provisions, beverages, kitchen

Climbing routes: PizzoCengalo, PizziGemelli, PizzoBadile north edge, PizzoBadile NE wall "Another Day", Ago diSciora

Maps :

Process card 1:25'000 sheet 1296 Sciora

Process card 1:50'000 sheet 278 M. Disgrazia

ALBIGNA HUT: 

Tel. # Hut: 081 - 822 14 05 

Reservations:- directly to the hut, or

- 081 - 822 13 16, or

- 01 - 780 00 74, or

Sleep places: 96 

Food supply: 

Full or half-board, Snacks and route provisions, beverages, kitchen 

From mid June to the end of September

as well as according by agreement

Winter area always open

High season: 

July/August

Maps:

Process card 1:25'000 sheet 1296 Sciora

Process card 1:25'000 sheet 1276 V. Bregaglia

Process card 1:50'000 sheet 278 M. Disgrazia

Access:

Cable car at Pranzaira 9 Swiss Francs each way.

June - September daily, 7,00 - 11.30/13.15 - 16,15 o'clock 

October - May only on advance notification (081 - 838 14 14).

Climbing routes: 

PizBalzet, CimadalLagh, Piz Bacun, Piz Casnil, Punta d'Albigna (Meuli route), Punta d'Albigna (modern trend times), Scalin, Vergine,aluminium Gal

SASC FURA

Tel#: 081 822 12 52

Hüttenwart Information: 

Barbara und RetoSalis

Coltura

7605Stampa

Tel#: 081 822 19 68

Reservations:

GianGanzoni

Plev 150 

7606Promontogno

Tel#: 079 357 85 86 / 081 822 12 21

Recommended Routes:

D- Piz Badile. N Ridge.Classic rock ridge (pitches of IV+) PD descent to Italy.

TDN Face, Cassin Route (VI).

D+ SE Face, Molteni Route (V).

AD- E Ridge.Rock (III).

Punta Sertori. S Ridge (IV).

TD PizzoCengalo.NW Pillar. Rock, glacier approach.

S Ridge Direct.Vinci Route (VII) “a narrow fin of granite”.

TD+ PizziGemelli.NNW Ridge, Flat Iron (V).

Torrione Est.SE Pillar, Parravicini Route (V+).

TD- Punta Allievi.S Ridfge, Gervasutti Route (V+).

Spazzacaldeira, Mosaico (VI+).

Nasi-Goreng (VI+).

Piz Frachiccio.Kasper Pillar (VII).

AD+Monte Disgrazia.NNE Ridge, CordaMolla. Brilliant mixed route.

SpigoloInglesi. Snow and ice.

ADPunta Kennedy.E Ridge. Rock (pitches of IV).

Piz Bernina. N Ridge, Biancograt. Classic snow ridge, with some rock (IV).

D+ W Face, T Graham Brown. Mixed.

D- Piz Palu.N Spur of E. Peak (III+).

TD- N Spur of W Peak. Mainly snow and ice.

AD Piz Cambrena.NNW Spur, Eisnase. Early in season.Mixed.

TD Grand traverse of Roseq-Scerscen-Bernina.

Facilities

Shops, banks, bars and restaurants in most town on the Swiss side. San Martino on the Italian side has shops, bars, climbing shop and restaurants. Public transport is good in both areas.